uncomfortable yet?

Earth Day passed by last week, and alot of people spent the day acting as if they cared about the environment with FB posts and changing a light bulb. (as you might gather, I'm not one for Earth Day--the holiday. If you wanna be green, be green. You don't need a special day... But i'm the same way about Christmas and Valentine's day too) I know, I get it. Some people need a kick in the butt to change that light bulb or *try* local produce. And good for you if you tried something new this last week. One first step is important, and hopefully you stay on that path and keep expanding your "greenness".

So the passing of this day usually gets me thinkin as i watch people around me buy CF bulbs, or even organic bamboo material. (soooooooo soft!) There's always a missing suggestion on how to be greener. An important suggestion, but an uncomfortable one.

Yeah, ladies. We need to talk about Auntie Flo. Our monthly visitor. The Banks of the Nile running red. A little ketchup with your steak. (and five million other euphemisms you can see on this link--HILARIOUS! http://www.mum.org/words.html) Yes. I am talking about menstruation.

Ok. If any boys were reading this, they've probably left now. That's good. They might not like what's coming.

I use cloth pads. There. I've said it. I no longer purchase Always or Tampax or any other "disposable" item to handle my monthly flow. There are still a few in the house--I still have a supply from when i did use them, but I only use them in emergencies right now.

I came to this lifestyle choice not because of a "green" decision, but a health one. I cannot use the disposable stuff--my vajayjay won't have it. I haven't been able to use tampons for a few years now--don't know why, but they are painful for me unless my flow is "ohmigod, how can i bleed that much and not die?" And yes, I've tried all the varieties, etc etc. I'm not a pansy. I used them for years having this problem because I thought, as many women do, that this is what women do. You mature, you start using tampons and you deal with it until you hit menopause. But the pain got so intense that i had to go back to the old high school standard, the pad.

God. It just evokes memories, right? Sitting in class, cramps from hell, hoping you're not leaking, or that the outline of the pad is showing because you're wearing tight-ass jeans, or the SOUND of them as you walk that you SWEAR everyone can hear. They aren't fun. period. (no pun intended, i think)

Well, it turns out my vajayjay don't like them either. I mean REALLY doesn't. one word: Rash. Yes, rash. So not only are they just no fun, they are extremely uncomfortable for me--and for days after once my period has ended.

Those were my arguments against--and fairly solid ones too. But for those of you without a sensitive vajayjay, here are a few others that make very good sense.

• Although most women think pads and tampons have been sterilized, they have not. In fact, no feminine hygiene product has been sterilized.
• FDA does not require that the ingredients in tampons and pads be listed anywhere in or on the package.
• Over 12 BILLION pads and tampons are USED ONCE and disposed of annually, adding to environmental pollution.
• In a woman's lifetime, she is likely to use 15,000 sanitary pads or tampons.
• An average woman throws away 250 to 300 pounds of tampons, pads and applicators in her lifetime. The great majority of these end up in landfills, or as something the sewage treatment plants must deal with.
• Plastic tampon applicators from sewage outfalls are one of the most common forms of trash on beaches.
• According to a 1998 article in Vegetarian Times, studies conducted by the sanitary products industry have found that lurking within tampons are trace amounts of dioxin, a chemical deemed a probable carcinogen by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).
• Congresswoman Carolyn Maloney from New York points out that there has been far more testing on the possible health effects of chlorine-bleached coffee filters than on chlorine-bleached tampons and related products.

And let us not forget the beauty of Toxic Shock Syndrome. It can, and does kill. I had a run-in with it once, long ago. Nothing like almost passing out on toilet to make you feel like a woman...

So now we hit alternatives--which in this world usually fall into two categories--cup or cloth.

For many women the cup is a great alternative. There are many brands out on the market that are free of whatever it is that makes your vajayjay unhappy. Just google "menstrual cup" and all sorts of links will pop up. But let me be clear here--this isn't for someone who is not comfortable with knowing the inside of her vajayjay. If you can't get past using an OB tampon because there is no applicator, then you will not like the cup, and you can just skip down to my discussion of cloth pads. If you've ever used a diaphragm, then this will be second nature to you. I recommend the Lunacup--it has a couple different models for women in different stages of life. Yeah--those vaginal muscles are not the same after childbirth, and your body's ability to hold that cup in place is different. (ask me how i know) The makers of the Lunacup understand that, and compensate.

I've tried the cup at various times in my life, but never stuck with it. For me there were a few cons: leaking and discomfort. No matter what brand i used, it never created a tight enough seal for me to not have to wear a pantyliner with it, which defeated the purpose. I also had a discomfort issue upon removal of the cup--but i think it was me and my weird vajayjay and not the cup. So they just aren't for me personally, but i know LOTS of women use them without complaint. You buy 2--one to wear and one that is being washed/sanitized. that's 2 for the year. Think about how many pads and tampons worn in a year. it takes 6 years for a tampon to decompose, and pads? It aint just diapers fillin' those landfills.

You can wear the cup for 12 hours at a time before you need to remove it and wash it. 12 hours. You get up, get ready for work, put in your cup, and have no worries until you come home. nice. Oh, and it makes for not so messy sex at the time too--another plus.

Since the cup wasn't for me, that left me to the more granola stand-by: cloth pads. This was more up my alley anyway since i have all this material--alot of it scraps--and a crafty notion. There are plenty of free patterns out there to make your own, so some women just trace the pad model they currently use so that it is a size they are used to. If you're not crafty, you can buy them. I've seen them in health food stores, and a few Whole Foods, and there are LOTS of women who sell them online or out of their homes. (And before you think this is a plug for me--I still dont' sell them. I'm still working on a design that is more efficient to make for the price i wanna sell, so I only make them for me at present.) Anywho, hit esty, or even google "cloth menstrual pads" and, yup, you guessed it, there is more than one page with sellers. Lots of WAHMs make these--usually the same women who make all-in-one cloth diapers (put it together), and it seems a lucrative business. (thus my other than personal interest) I've seen them called Glad Rags, Mama Cloths, Moon cloths, etc.

Ok, that's all about supply. I know what you're thinkin' though--HOW? Well, it's not as hard as you might imagine. You can also google this (*it's how i learned).

First, cleaning. It's the biggest part of this job. Personally, I have a bucket set aside to soak used pads in soap or Oxiclean solution. Changed daily. I just put the used one in there, let it soak, and then change the water the next day, keeping the soakers in there (unless they are stain-free, then i remove them and dry them on a rack that is hidden away...) once my period is over, I take all the ones soaking and/or drying and throw them in the wash for a good hot wash with soap. Out of the dryer I fold them up and put them in the bathroom to await my next visit from Auntie. Yeah, there's a little work there. But i have a happy vajayjay and I'm not filling the landfill with more plastic. It's less work than cloth diapering a baby. Or just caring for a baby, period.

Second--what about going out in public? Its not much different from using other items. You usually have a "wet bag" which could be anything from a ziploc bag to an embroidered, plastic-lined number. Just something to hold a used one if you need to. Yeah. You have to carry it around with you. That may be the number-one turn off for lots of women. If so, try the cup.

Third: leaking. Some of you may be thinking--but jeez, I bleed like Niagara Falls here--Cotton ain't gonna cut it! Well, you aren't the only one. Cotton pads are made with different parts. There is an absorbent middle (i used flannel, polar fleece, terry or microfiber) and some people make their's with PUL--a plastic lined material. I don't because I don't want plastic anywhere near my vajayjay. It also makes a crinkly noise that i don't want to hear. There are also models that have a place where you can put in another soaker (like for overnight or super heavy flow) to compensate. I can say with great confidence that in all the time I've been doing this--one leak. ONE. And here's a little known fact that i discovered when i was doing my reasearch. It isn't scientifically proven or anything, but when you use cloth or the cup, you begin to bleed less. yes. You read that right. YOU BLEED LESS. Not right off the bat, mind you. But a few cycles in, you begin to notice a difference. (cramps are still there though. sorry) Personally, when i was worried in the beginning, i would just put a pantyliner that i still had under the cloth pad. But now that's not even a necessity.

I know it ain't for everyone. And if the thought of any of this grosses you out, then you have your answer. But if you've thought about it, or any of the facts struck a nerve with you, then it might be time to make a change. And think about this. If you are willing to cloth diaper your kid--what is the difference? It's not as "granola" as you think it might be. Lots of women make this choice. Could be the woman sitting next to you. If you passed Earth day and wondered, how can i make my life "greener", the answer might be in your own drawers.

haters

Yeah, it's been awhile. Turns out work catches up with life sometimes. Had a LARGE burp order to fill for a friend with lots of pregnant friends, and then the coolest diaper bag ever.

This was my first time using this pattern--although i had read about it a million times, and seen many examples on one of my online sewing forums/groups. So i finally bought the pattern earlier this year, and found this absolutely awesome material downtown. It was a time consuming pattern--LOTS of pieces, many of them that had to be interfaced with iron-on Decor-Bond interfacing. It took me an hour just to cut it out! i should have taken a picture of all the pieces with their little labels pinned to them! (There was actually only one pattern piece--the rest were just squares or rectangles cut by dimension with my rotary cutter) I also had to make one change because i didn't have any cord for the side pockets, so i improvised and used elastic instead. .

For anyone attempting to use this pattern, a few pieces of advice: read each instruction carefully, use the heavy duty denim needle the pattern suggests, and take your time. There are only a few places where the pattern gets "tricky", but if you just look at it, it makes sense.

Now, I will admit-one of the reasons i post to my sewing forums is to get some oohs and ahs. I'm a praise whore--no question. But in a bored world, it's nice to have something you make, with your own hands, be praised and admired. i really enjoy creating, and i also enjoy the praise that follows. glutton. guilty.

I will also admit to a little trouble with taking criticism. Even in my writing classes it was the hardest thing to grin and say--"i never thought of that, thank you." egotistical? If you must. None of us want to think of ourselves in that kind of light--but i just BRISTLE upon receiving criticism. If it comes from a source i respect, and has a modicum of truth to it, i generally come around, but the time from when i first hear it to acceptance it an ulcer-inducing episode.

(irony? I was often a sought after critic of other's written work. But i always assumed people were feeling what i felt, and i hated doing it. --unless the other writer was a jerk, then it was kinda fun. Guess i should have been an editor.)

So, most of the these online forums are manna for the prostitutes of praise. No one wants to be the dick and post what they are really thinking (or what sometimes comes out of my mouth): "wow, that looks like ass". Because these women will turn on you in a heartbeat. and honestly, most of the projects i see in one or two of my groups is professional quality. GORGEOUS. envy inducing--inspiring me to sew straighter seams, match prettier fabrics and pretty much perfect my own skills. So not only do you get some praise, you get to see some beautiful work.

So, imagine my shock when i post this gorgeous bag--a bag i have no desire to give away--and the response is sparse and a few actually negative. And not negative in the way of--hmm, those patterns don't quite work together or your seams are all messed up sista. no. They have to comment that the fabric seems "inappropriate" for a diaper bag. In fact they go out of my way to tell me what a great job i did in constructing it, but then dis the material.

????

Most of us go out of our way to say something positive about the...ahem...beginner projects that could benefit from a solid seam ripping and reconstruction, and keep our criticisms to ourselves--when we are prolly doing the seamstress a disservice by not telling her to practice sewing in a straight line. And these beeotchnits bag the material--and not even in a truly critical way?

(harrumph)

so, i've obviously been thinking about criticism and politeness. My mother raised me correctly--if you don't have anything nice to say, mutter it under your breath when they're out of earshot. (jk mom--i know to keep my mouth shut when i don't have anything nice to say--i just figured that one would make you laugh) And since many of these women pride themselves on being "brought up right" and have made more than one statement about "how rude people are today", i just can't help but wonder about the motives of this criticism.

To simplify, i call it a red state/blue state thing (but of course it isn't that simplistic) Many of the items posted by others on some of my forums are gorgeous, but old fashioned and conservative. You know--dress for their daughters because they HAVE to wear a dress to school due to the dress code? They don't like skulls because it represents something that makes them uncomfortable--and they don't like THESE skulls because of that and....(shhhh) *whispers* brown people. Lets just say that those who live in areas where Dia De Los Muertos is a visible part of October only had great things to say.

So yeah, I've been thinkin about this for a few days. I'd love to say I just ignored it and moved on--but people who say that never do--it still niggles into your everyday life and colors what you think. I plan to put it aside after this post, but it will definitely color how often i post in those sewing groups...

Lessons learned this week:

• iron-on interfacing is convenient and tedious all at once
• heavy-duty needles really do work
• some people were NOT raised right, no matter their protestations
• Yolie is gonna look like the hippest mom at playgroup with this awesome bag.

Old Friends

Well, my plans for a more productive week were laid waste by the plague. More like a snotty nose and subsequent sinus infection. It started with Ben (one week into preschool) who luckily only had the snotty nose, and then went on to Daddy who got the sinus infection and then to me with a sore throat. So I had that busy week of taking care of others before even contemplating getting into my studio. By the time the weekend rolled around, I was tired, either from a milder form of the cold both of these boys had, or just from exhaustion.

One thing I did get to experience though was a chance to get to JoAnn’s WITHOUT my son in tow. The store opens and hour and a half before I have to pick him up from preschool, so it is the perfect opportunity to go get the few things I need without a toddler trying to pick every notion off the wall, or screaming in protest during a fabric cut. And lord knows, I love nothing more than having little old ladies giving me “that look” when Ben is acting up. Don’t get me wrong, I find his high pitched scream as annoying—maybe more—than the next person, and if I had a magic wand, I would tell my child to please be quiet, and he would sit contentedly in the cart, daydreaming about butterflies and unicorns while I had yards and yards of calico cut to my convenience. But I choose NOT to dose him with Benadryl or beat him, so they will have to look on with their tsking glances and “when I was a mom” phraseology. Besides, it gives them something to gossip about with the other hags while sipping “Constant Comment” at the quilting circle.

I also took a moment this week to embroider a t-shirt for my son for St Patrick’s day. Seeing as he is in fact Irish (I am not) AND has a crafty mother, it seemed only appropriate that he have a fancy-schmancy shirt with awesome green embroidery on it to celebrate the 10% of Irish blood he may possess. (and yes, to show off my skills to his teacher and aides. I’ll admit—I’m a praise whore.There. I’ve said it. Look—A business like mine works word of mouth. If I get a couple of really chatty ladies to admire my work,AND my son looks cool in the process, well, that’s my advertising for the month…)The design I chose was pretty fly—a plaid shamrock (yes, that picture there--awesome right?). It was indeed sweet, but took FOREVER to stitch out. So while I was overseeing that, I took the opportunity to measure Gladys. That’s the name of my first dressform. I bought her when I was making my wedding dress. At that point in my sewing career I knew I needed to step it up. So I bought her online, making sure she could adjust to my measurements and brought her into my sewing room. And while she may not be top of the line, she has been one of the most important additions to my sewing arsenal.Without her, my wedding dress might have looked quite different. I used her to apply lace (a first for me) to the bodice, to test various trims at the waist, and to bustle it. I also believe my mother used her to help with the hem.

I haven’t used her in a while because my measurements and hers haven’t matched up. She is more…graduated... in the bust, and…well…I’m not. When I adjust her bust measurement, her back and ribcage measurement are much larger than mine. Most of us don’t graduate up to our busts—we have a ribcage that graduates up a tad, and then BOOBS. Ok, I guess an A cup will graduate a bit, but I don’t concern myself with their figure. Sizist, I know, but they get the option of going out in public WITHOUT a bra, wearing spaghetti straps without looking ridiculous, and the lions share of fancy-schmancy bras that push and pull and look awesome. Those of us in the…well…let’s just say heavily endowed arena do not get those options, and subsequently are not served well by this dress form (at least for fitted garments). So I’ve only really used her as a “holder” for items I’m making, since fitting doesn’t always work anymore.

But as I move forward in my pattern-making project, I’ve decided to bring her back into my arsenal. Sure, I’ve got a smaller, more high-end dressform now, that would prolly be easier to use, but it is a smaller and I just can’t bring myself to practice on a size 3. I bought the smaller one when I had to make a dress for a slimmer friend, (and got a fantastic deal on it with a 50% off coupon at JoAnns—seriously, pay attention to those coupons!) but haven’t used her since. I haven’t even named the smaller one. She’s below my radar. But Gladys has always been there, holding my aprons, or (sorry guys) to hang the bowling shirts I make to set the hem. And since I am committed to making clothes for the “real woman” it makes sense to use her as my fitting model when I am not fitting myself.

So I brought out the tape measure and jotted down her torso and hip measurements. I’ll only be able to use her for bodice, skirt and sleeveless dress applications since she has no arms, but she should be easier to fit than a fidgety friend for now. Better to learn to fit one symmetrical form before I move on to sloped shoulders or misaligned hips.

On another note—the root canal is not yet finished. Turns out there will be a third installment.Yay.

Lessons learned this week:

• Children in school will bring home germs. Period
• Again—fabric shopping without my progeny is efficient and wonderful
• Schools are the perfect for free advertising, and my son is a beautiful model
• Boobs present a fitting problem/learning experience
• Old friends are best.

This was a big week. The little man started pre-school and I had a root canal. Craft/Sewing-wise, nothing really got done this week. But I did get to do some fabric shopping with a friend and picked up a few interesting books at the library.

Since I live in Los Angeles, I am not limited to the local JoAnn’s or Hancock fabrics—even though I feel like I give a donation to Our Lady of Quilting Cottons on a regular basis. I am luckily 20 minutes (if there’s no traffic on the 101 –riiiiiiight) from the Los Angeles Garment district. Not only can I buy a knock-off coach bag and ten skirts for under $50, but some fantastic fabric shops abide in that area. If you are brave enough to skirt past the people hawking corn and porkskins from carts and the inevitable “downtown smells”, then you can enter fabric paradise. I would imagine the only place better would be in New York…

As I often head downtown on a particular mission, I usually head to Michael Levine. They pretty much have everything. And I mean EVERYTHING. I haven’t yet found Mood Fabric, but I’m sure its comparable. Michael Levine has one store of fashion fabric, one store of decorator fabric, and my favorite—the Loft. The loft is where they dump their ends, seasonals and downright unpopulars in big boxes and you have to just brave it and dive in like a trash picker. Fabric over in the loft is sold by the pound, and if you are diligent, you can find some pretty fantastic stuff over there—especially knits. There are a number of my Loft finds in my fabric stash, just waiting for me to create some sort of magic.

This week, since I was bringing a friend/client—we headed to the fashion fabric store. Since I am making gifts for her, I cannot divulge the nature of our trip, only that the perfect colors needed to be found. (and were!) I was cool experiencing the store through new eyes—the absolute sensory overload of color & texture. As a child often dragged to fabric stores, they don’t overload me anymore, so it’s nice to be reminded of how much a fabric store can awe someone.

I should say this was also the first time I brought my little man downtown. He loooooved the elevator (urine smell and all) but was absolutely not interested in the fabric store. I think at one point we stopped and looked at some fish on fabric—a brief interlude—before he threw himself on the floor to lay there—mid traffic pattern—and sing his song. At least he wasn’t screaming—and I was able to get some fabric for a project as well.

The root canal was unplanned. And frankly, not as bad as I expected. The actualy procedure was just long and boring. 6 shots of novocaine—the only the first two hurt. It was the post-procedure that blew. You know it’s gonna be tough when the dentist prescribe Vicodin and gives you that “look”, as if to say—“sorry, but the rest of your week is shot to hell.” It hasn’t been horrible (well, the vicodin made that happen) but it hasn’t been fun either. I’ve been in that state where, I’m in enough pain to take a pill, but once I do, I can’t get anything done. Yesterday, I survived on Advil and was able to get a little crafting done with a good friend, so I’m beginning to get a grip on things. But unfortunately, my dentist isn’t done—she still has to finish the other root—so I get to go through this again in another week. At least this time I know what to expect, and will have enough “soft food” in the house to keep me going.

As far as library books, I was able to pick up Amy Butler's Little Stitches for Little Ones, missing the patterns (lame). It had some interesting ideas, especially for the diaper bags. I am so inspired by her fabrics--rich colors and textiles and a lack of fear to mix those fabulous patterns. This is my deepest challenge--mixing patterned fabric...

I picked up a few other books with simple patterns and ideas--i don't pick them up for the patterns as much as for inspiration. I also got a costuming book, which set me into fits of delight, imagining creating corsets and full skirts, and Elizabethan doublets...I think i was meant to be a costumer...

Imma try to get a grip this week. I need to finish a little dress I’ve been sitting on, I’ve got a bag order I need to start, this “gift” order that needs another consult before I start, and I need to do some re-measuring and pattern drafting to regain momentum on my fashion design project. I’m still getting used to Ben’s schedule, so I may actually be able to start using that time this week. And I need to get this all done BEFORE root canal part Deux next Monday.

And by the way, I hate the time change.

Lessons learned this week:

• Don’t take fabric stores for granted—it is like a candy store!
• Don’t force your son to go with you to said candy store—he just sees bolts of fabric
• Root canals aren’t as horrible as you would imagine. But they can be.
• Time management is key!

Pinch Hitter

So, I was working out a fitting problem with my sloper while my mother was here, and I began to have this feeling I had early on in this project—this book (Armstrong) isn’t always the most…clear. It IS a textbook, and no doubt is meant to be used in conjunction with a classroom teacher, but there’s still just something missing. Well, first off, all the measurements are based on a dressform and not a real person, with no instructions for measuring a real person—which is just fine for a student I suppose, but not very effective for real-world application. The instructions for taking those measurements aren’t always clear either. And the size charts listed in the book are…well…not “plus size” friendly. This burns me a little—no, A LOT. I really detest the sizeism that exists in the fashion world, and the relegating of size 12 and above into the backseat. “Here are the fashions for this spring, maybe they’ll look good on your fat ass. Not my problem” (yeah, I’m talking to you Karl Lagerfeld) You never see an candidate on project runway designing for plus girls, do ya? And before anyone decides to get up on me about health and etc—I’m not talking about size 20, or morbidly obese women—hell, I’m not even talking about “obese” women. I’m talking SIZE 12—the size I was in high school and after, when the comments about my body were definitely NOT in the negative…)

I really have no desire to create a size 3 garment. Ever. Unless it is a 3T garment. Or I have a skinny friend.

And I’m not trying to say that Armstrong is sizist—I mean I KNOW this is a text book for young fashion students. I just find it disappointing that it is in no way connected with the real world.

Back to m fitting problem…there was a gap in the armscye, (that’s a fancy word for armhole for the rest of the world)both front and back. Front was easy—just add a dart. But the back involved opening the seam, moving fabric down, and other mysterious activites that didn’t fix the problem. We just kept trying to fix it and the book just had some strange diagrams and extremely vague instructions. In the end, we kinda took a wild stab at it and hoped it worked. I’m still not convinced it solved the problem…

There was also an issue when I was drafting the sleeve pattern. There was no explanation of where the arm cap measurement was—just some chart to follow (A chart I might mention that I was not on size-wise, so even more guessing) and the measurement for the armscye circumference and its corresponding sleeve measurement wouldn’t match unless I took 2 inches off my bicep. All I kept thinking was, this CAN’T be right.

I should mention my innate fear of sleeves. They still trip me up. Especially the set-in eased sleeve that is a part of most women’s garments.

For those of you who don’t sew, a brief primer: when a garment is made, you usually put the bodice (front and back) together first leaving a hole for the arm. Then you sew the sleeve together so that it is a tube with one curved/funky end. Then you “ease” the top of that sleeve a little—which are just little gathers to make the sleeve fit around your shoulder and allow movement. Then you match up that tube with the armhole, and after some fussing and sometimes cursing, you pin the two and sew them together. If you do it right, you can’t even see the gathers and you have the whole range of movement with the sleeve. If not…well, you rip it out and do it again. It has been said that the ease of a sleeve is the most difficult sewing you ever have to do—and I agree.

This fear I have of sleeves comes not only from my own lessons from my umpteen years of sewing, but from a job I had last year. The big job—the mu’u mu’u job. Yeah—those sleeves were just CRAP. I was working off a pattern drafting program that I no longer use, because it is crap, and the sleeves were just horrid. No movement, horrible ease, bad, bad, bad—and no doubt one of the many reasons I was not asked back to that particular Halau for another job. So, as you can see, sleeves just make me nervous.

So when I found this fitting problem in my own sloper, I was not happy with just guessing and hoping it was right. If someone puts on a garment and cannot move their arms naturally, you lose business. Period. I have thrown out more than one commercial pattern that was just a poor draft for the sleeve and armscye. I want answers on how to fit this properly—not vague diagrams. Remember—this set of patterns isn’t for the clothes one wears—they are the base for those clothes. You make these right, and the fit of the fashion garment will need little to no alteration.

So…for the time being, I am going to stray from Armstrong and move over to Don McCunn for the sloper production. a) he is measuring real people (and shows you tricks to measure yourself in tricky places—like that center back seam…) and b) he has videos. I am already a member of his Yahoo group (How-to-Make-Sewing-Patterns-subscribe@yahoogroups.com) and frankly find his methods clear and concise. I’ve checked out his book previously, and just ordered my own copy for a reference tool. I’m not too keen on his design asthetic(hello, the 80’s called), but his sloper instruction is the best I’ve come across. So, for now, while I am making these slopers, I’m gonna follow hi method, and once I’ve got a sloper with which I am comfortable and UNDERSTAND then I will turn back to the Armstrong to begin the design aspect of my learning.

Now, this is not to say the Armstrong is bad—the new edition might even address those things with which I take issue. But since I have no desire to fork out $150 for a new book, I’m gonna work out what I can.

When I was trying to explain this to my husband, he made a simple statement: that book was probably written by a seamstress. And while she was no doubt a good seamstress, she isn’t the best writer and or teacher. I know there are others who would VEHEMENTLY disagree with that statement, but I don’t. I have no doubt the author knows her stuff—she just doesn’t know how to explain it very well.

Lessons learned this week:

• Fashion hates real women
• Sleeves are not to be trifled with
• Sometimes you just gotta watch someone do it to understand how
• I’m not gonna make friends in the fashion world

crafting ADD

well, i had a huge crafting weekend, but still haven't touched the Armstrong. In my defense however, i did finish the sleeve draft last weekend and am now waiting to measure my dressform for easier drafting/fitting issues down the road. Besides, i am happy to report that i am losing some weight, and some of the measurements i have are changing... :)

This weekend my mother came up to help me with some organizational issues. (and honey, trust me, i have issues) My latest goal is a business goal, and therefore trumps all personal goals at present. Turns out I have a large stash of material. Last year i bough another garment rack, and put all my material on hangers so that i have easy access to it, physically and visually. But I'm still not using it as I would like--i still keep buying material for projects instead of utilizing my stash. A few projects ago, i had to get some fabric that i knew didn't exist in my stash for a project. and since my customer was not local, i had to email her my choices--enter the scanner. a great way to get a pic of my fabric and voila! it's stored in my computer. hmmmmmm

If all my material were scanned and labeled, I could peruse my "catalog" (i had previously done something similar with all my commercial patterns) to see if i had the appropriate material, and enough for the job...I could put pics up on my business page and Etsy if i was offering a particular style. I could discuss fabric choices with clients even if I'm not in my studio...my brain began to explode.

So I waited for a visit from my mother to start this project. I'll be honest, I thought it would be a walk in the park--a couple hours of measuring and scanning. WRONG. oh we spent a couple hours--and we're maybe halfway done. I'm really glad she came up to help with this, or i would be further behind at this point.

(I should also mention here that we also took the opportunity to head out to Pomona for the sew/quilt/craft show, where i bought even more material... and also made the keen observation that quilting folk are...well...rude. I got poked and shoved more times at that show than i ever did at CHA--and this show wasn't even half as big)

It's also fun to take this visual trip through memory lane. Some fabrics I bought with a purpose--a shirt for Pete, jammies for Ben, and i was reminded of the level of sewing I used to employ for my own family. Some fo the fabrics were finds from the local Michael Levine loft--the warehouse where they send all their ends and unpopular fabrics that you have to sort through like a trash picker that they sell by the pound. If you are diligent, there are some incredible finds in that loft. I saw the funky challis print i found (brown, green & yellow wildness) that will make the perfect long sundress once i remember what it is to sew for myself! (gasp!) And of course, some of the material were large remnant peices from other projects--primarily my wedding gown. My mother and I, who put that gown together--with some cutting assistance from my BFF--were reminded of the process, the hunt for the right material--the heavy oyster colored satin--and the embroidered lace that we labored over--it was so expensive, but was sooooooooo perfect against the satin. There was a great deal of hemming and hawing that day, but in the end (with the assistance of my grandmother's spirit, according to my mother) the lace was purchased (too much i might add--now i have over a yard leftover!) and the perfect combination was created. Good memories. I'll admit, i was never 100% in love with the dress, but it was a thing of beauty!

So, now i have this pile of material, and a whole other garment rack of material, that i have to scan and label--but this time on my own. *sigh* But i do have another boon this week. My little man starts pre-school this week--just 2.5 hours a day/4 days a week--but that's 10 extra hours for studio time that i didn't have last week.

But trust me, I'm sure i'll figure out some way to avoid getting in there and getting this job done this week. Have i mentioned the root canal on Wednesday? One day gone...

Lessons learned this week:

If it's good for business, do it! *within reason*

Organization is fun, but time consuming

I have way too much fabric

My mother and i made an awesome wedding dress

root canals suck

well, I did make the pattern...

Well, that sleeve pattern is still eluding me. But in my defense, have you seen this?

It's been a bit of an obsession this week. a) i wanted to get it done since my friend has been waiting for this and b) i wanted this *#@&))!* fur out of my studio. You know, two years ago i made a monkey costume for my son that was a similar fabric, and i vowed on all that was holy (that being kahlua and girl scout Thin Mints) that i would NEVER, EVER, NEVER, NOT IF THE DALAI LAMA ASKED ME DIRECTLY, work with this material again!

And then there it was. While searching for the right fabric, and failing, it gleamed and beckoned, like Excalibur being held by the Lady of the Lake. Ok, so strange women, lying in ponds distributing fabric is no system for baby blanket creation. But still, look at it! I mean, how perfect is perfect? (and it was on sale!)

This piece was work, don't doubt me on that. I used the Sew Baby pattern for Towel cover-ups, modifying the bear pattern. modifying...let me think...let's change that to completely altering and then creating from scratch. Ok, i used the eyes. And the method for attaching the hood. But the rest of it is mine all mine.

First was the fact that i was not using towels and washcloths as the pattern indicates. I had to create my own with the fur and flannel. I tried first, like a n00b to just sew the fur & flannel right sides together and then turn. WRONG. I must mention here that not only does this fur deposit little fuzzies EVERYWHERE, but it's a stretchy material with a heavy nap that will shift and stretch. That first piece sewn together and turned looked like a jr. high home ec. project. So i had to come at this different.

I cut a piece of flannel the size i wanted for the "towel" and then turned in and pressed the edges as if i were going to hem it. Then i cut a similar sized piece of the fur and laid in on top--wrong side to wrong side. Then i carefully turned the edge in and pinned it to the flannel. Little by little until it was all pinned and turned in. Then i brought it over to my economy model machine and sewed a straight line--slowly and methodically. Luckily the nap of the fur pretty much hid the seam.

I should mention here that i chose to use my economy machine because my machine that also does embroidery was otherwise occupied. I did try to bring in this machine later for the embroidery on the face but had to go back to the economy machine because my fancy schmancy machine couldn't handle the materials...friggin machines!

Anyway, as far as the hood goes, I tried to use the bear pattern and "modify" it to make it like a lion, but in the end, it looked like a rabbit. The cheeks were too big and round. So i have to look at some lions and figure out the whole snout/nose/cheeks layout. Once that happened though, it came together fairly easily. I did use the eyes for the pattern, and just made the ears smaller.

the mane. I tried three or four different methods until i realized that i would have to do this by hand. I need to mention here, i hate hand sewing. If there is a way to do it with my machine, i will find a way. I always feel like hand sewn stuff looks sloppy--probably because my hand-sewing is sloppy. But i sat down with the hood over my knee and wound the rayon ribbon back and forth, tacking it down on each turn. Then i covered that with some ric-rac to cover my ugly hand stitches.

Once that hood was done--which is what took up most of my week, the rest came together fairly easily.

This was definitely a challenging project. But it was good for my creativity. It forced me out of my box a little, and challenged my patience. But it was also good for me to get into my studio this week and quit wallowing in my own issues. I had just been discussing with a friend yesterday that it was a good thing i was a musician through high school because it served as an outlet for my anger/frustration/confusion/ISSUES. With all that is going on with Ben and the school district, i needed this project to force me to get back to work and get back to life.

Lessons learned this week:

• I need to embrace my Monty Python sensibilities.
• I never want to work with this material AGAIN.
• Simpler sewing machines will always get the job done.
• Creative outlets are more than just a hobby--they can be therapy as well.
• I need to charge an exorbitant amount for this next time, so no one will want it...
• I NEVER WANT TO WORK WITH THIS MATERIAL AGAIN.